ABCD of my North Bengal tour

The planner sent via mail is mentioned below which I adhered to willingly:

Bagdogra Airport – Kalimpong (Approx – 75 kms 3 hrs)

30/12/ 2010- Day 01. Assistance on arrival at Bagdogra Airport and transfer to Kalimpong. Check in to the hotel. After lunch birding in and around Kalimpong. Overnight in Kalimpong. 

Kalimpong – Neora Valley (Approx – 60 kms 3 hrs)
31/12/2010- Day 02: Post breakfast birding to Lava & Loleygaon and transfer to Neora Valley. Over night in Neora Valley Jungle Camp.

Birding at Neora valley

1/1/2011- Day 03: After breakfast birding to in & around Neora Valley. Rest of the day at own. Overnight at Neora Valley.

Neora Valley - Garumara (Approx 80 kms / 4 hrs.)

2/2/2011- Day 04: Post breakfast transfer to Garumara. Post lunch birding trip to in & around Garumara. Over night in Garumara.

Garumara sightseeing
3/3/2011- Day 05: Early morning birding trip to Garumara forest. After breakfast visit to Samsing & Suntalekhola for birding. Evening Camp Fire. Dinner. Overnight in Garumara.

Garumara – Bagdogra Airport (Approx - 70 kms 2 hrs)

4/4/2011- Day 06: Post breakfast take the departure transfer to Bagdogra Airport / NJP Railway Station for your onward journey.

After a lot of hick-ups I managed to head for North Bengal expecting some quite travelling along with birding. The Spice Jet flight was on time and a Bolero was waiting to take me to Kalimpong. The road from Bagdogra is surrounded by tea estates & we went ahead towards Sevok. A Grey-backed Shrike welcomed me. The Coronation Bridge is getting some renovation in terms of color only as told to me by my 26years old philosopher driver Janak Manger. On being asked about condition of his vehicle he stated that in todays world you can’t predict a fellow human being so why to bother about the vehicle. He also added that his Bolero do talk to him by sounds emitted from malfunctioning parts. Without further enquiry we took the NH 31 through Mahananda WLS & reached late at Kalimpong Orchid Retreat run by the Pradhans. Senior Pradhan is very cordial and is an experienced bird photographer himself. We spent the quite & cold evening together with him sharing his days in Xavier & told about his Kolkata being the best city in the whole world where anyone new is embraced without a question.

 

Being from plane makes the cold chiller but at 6am when the bird world woke me up I couldn’t resist the urge to sacrifice the warmth of my bed. Whole Kalimpong city was covered with thin fog making them look like a dark blue sky beneath the real one with occasional lamp lights as stars twinkling still dreaming from last night. I went to the well maintained natural garden wearing ornaments of Orchid. I saw Himalayan Bulbul, Purple-rumped Sunbird, Rock Pigeon and Blue Whistling Thrush. A Hoary-bellied Himalayan Squirrel continuously made bird like noises from a distant tree which I later found are aplenty in the garden. A blooming Flaming Trumpet (pyrostegia venusta) tree attracted my attention & when I came nearer I was surprised by sudden flight of a Streaked Spider Hunter which continued its objection on my sudden invasion by crying from a nearby branch making even the squirrel silent and listen to it. Pratap was very cordial in his service and food was much better than my expectation (developed based upon my frequent encounters with the so called star class hospitalities).  

 

 

 

 

Cold was becoming habitual and after breakfast I checked-out and went ahead for Rishyap, Loleygaon & Lava sightseeing. The distant view of Kanchenjunga & other peaks from Loleygaon and Rishyap was panoramic. I saw Rufous-tailed Scrub Robins & Shrike at Rishyap and then at Lava Forest Department area as well as the Monastery. A white-browed Wagtail guarded every corner of the monastery keeping just safe distance from the tourists. I saw Grey Bush chat (male) on the way too. A Grey Wagtail smartly crossed our speeding vehicle continuing the chase for food. That inspired me to have my lunch at Lava only though a complementary one waited at Neora and we had it at the Orchid Hotel restaurant. I had to purchase an ear-cover to stop them forcing the outside cold inside me.

Despite the tiring schedule (which was quite self-imposed) and the worst road from Lava to Neora Valley Jungle Camp, the welcome that I received by the scenic beauty, the Niltava Cottage as well as Mr Paul rejuvenated me immediately. It was very cold and cloud was gathering below bringing darkness on the whole valley. Silence was only disturbed by a group of Rufous Sibia planning next day’s agenda with equal energy as shown by our politicians in the parliament. The Jerdon`s Baza which followed us from Lava also bade farewell. Night was chilling cold and the rain that came from no where was so strong that shook my cottage or that is what I thought while shivering in cold and fear (characters from all my childhood horror books become alive around me whenever I am alone in these conditions). There were no lightning but occasional fire-crackers from the New Year celebration down hill made a symphony. The only amusement came while trying the toilet I noticed that the dustbin have company logo sticker stating Export Quality-100% Virgin.

 

Early wake-up was inevitable as I slept very little fearing an unexpected knock on my door which ultimately came as a bed tea and the relief. With my 8.2 M & 4X digital camera which has a slower response than myself and a 30X25 binocular which brings even the Himalayas closer to me blurring all close things around I started my journey for some serious birding. And the place indeed is a paradise. Near one of the tent house stands a Ghurpis (Nepali) Tree (leucosceptum canum) blooming with long flowers and there is a competition among bees and birds. I saw Rufous Sibia, Green-backed Tit, Great Tit, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Orange-bellied Leafbird pair, Red-tailed Minla, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Greenish Warbler, Fire-tailed Sunbird (Female) and Black-billed Magpie. Mr. Paul also took me for a walk after breakfast in the nearby virgin forests around. He also informed that the locals are descends of Kirat Raja and Rai Nepali who are vegetarians which contributed to the growth in wildlife. The forest deeper is home to deer, leopard and bears. In contrary to other Indian forests there is no human and animal conflict even occasionally here. I was guided to a beautiful waterfall, Changey near Kolakham by a class VIII student Yogesh Rai who has a school vacation now and was helping his mother at home. It costed me Rs 150 only as part of supporting the locals but the sight is unmatched with lot of colourful birds. The return to the top where the Bolero was parked though was hilarious physical task which given an option I may not pursue again.

Far ahead the road along the hill forest are great birding area where I saw Striated Laughingthrush, Variegated Laughingthrush, Slaty-backed Forktail, White-browed Fantail, Common Green Magpie and Striated Bulbul. A lot of small birds, a Lineated Barbet and Black Woodpecker were also encountered. While undertaking another road in the forest I suddenly heard some animal running towards me with loud breathing sounds from the turning beyond my vision. My immediate response was to take the camera in one hand & the binocular in the other and use this opportunity to get rid of both the costly things that otherwise I couldn’t have sacrificed easily but definitely to save my own dear life from a hungry bear. After a few moments the two camp dogs came running to me with their tails waving to show their pleasure seeing me after they missed the morning bed-tea biscuits that I was sharing with them.

 

Going back was not what I wanted but I had to move on. The sky above was clear giving a beautiful panoramic view of the snow-covered peaks and passes Kham, Koptan, Khumvkaran, Talung, Goechey La, Kabru North, Kabru Dom, Kanchenjunga, Pandim, Sinalchu, Nafsing, Seven Sisters, Nathula, Jelepla as the locals identified to me. The Sun was in a mood to romance with all of them together embracing them with golden twilight of dawn. I was served Phaley, delicious Tibetan bread made of tandoor along with curry. The overall service by the three musketeers Khem Bahadur, a 65 years old bachelor from Himachal-Nepal border who fell in love with this place decades ago and never returned and the Gajmer Brothers Jogesh and Paramesh makes the best food and service you can expect. It was time to say goodbye and with small token of appreciation to all I hit the road again now for the plains.  

 

Hills are one such place where you can confidently take your senses to rejuvenate. The occasional BRO signs like ``on my curves hold your nerves`` don’t offend that feeling. The Chel River was alongside us during our return and all streams or waterfalls were full of picnickers blowing music to the fullest. Nature was though indifferent. The game of fog & cloud continued up and down the heights along with the playful Sun. Near the Monastery at Peparkheti I saw Grey-backed Shrike & Himalayan Bulbul once again. Janak was at his best again showing me some cow inferred that if these creatures stay in the jungles longer they will become bison. All around the farmers valued their money as they saved some while travelling down hill by walking only miles after miles. Most homes are having dish TV from Reliance and every one are hard working, educated, stylist and honest. Many shops are displaying the Gorkhaland name as address, many have the printed calendar for 2011 with Gorkhaland map but the day to day life of commoners don’t seem to be affected at all. They are what they were- friendly & jovial. The Poinsettia (euphorbia pulcherrima) tree created natural Red boundaries along side the roads making the grey slopping farmland colourful. Construction work along Hillton tea estate halted traffic for a brief. Tea-workers were having lunch with drinks. We crossed Jelkhola River, Neora River, Kurti River etc. Common Swifts & Asian House Martins were plenty around. So are the Indian Rollers, Spotted Dove, Cattle Egret, Red-vented Bulbul, House Crow and Common Myna. And the plains started suddenly changing the whole atmosphere. There were Red flags clashing with green-white-yellow flags in the cold wind which seemed to be the actual winner. There were Tea-gardens full of workers, a well maintained hospital with emergency doors closed, an empty Anganwari Community Hall, a Church where hens are fighting, Tea-worker`s basti with graves nearby, Army camp where boys are playing cricket, roads showing their decade old skin, Malbazar Park with couples around, what not. Everything started suddenly bringing me down to one reality that takes bigger part of our life. Reaching Gorumara Jungle Camp was a relief. Rose-ringed Parakeets and monkeys both Rhesus & Assamese cheered my arrival.

 

I had a go around and found that it is not so well maintained but being in the middle of a tea garden makes it serene despite the noisy boarders staffs like Parimal making it cordial. The frequent power failure may give you opportunity to enjoy the natural darkness among the woods provided others don’t force the staffs to start the bursting generator.

Jungle Safari starts at 6am. I woke Janak and started in the chilling night full of expectation. The yellow markers bordering the road glittered like gold reflecting on the Bolero light in the still dark surrounding. The counter was deserted with only a couple of groups (it is the first working day after the New Year weekend) had booked and no one to take me as a partner. I booked one whole safari myself & the cost honestly made me miss my family once again. With my little one we are exactly six that a safari takes. After formalities we went to Jatra Prasad watch tower named after a long serving `Kunki` (trained) elephant. The Murti River and the surrounding area were still sleeping with the blanket of mist on that kept on moving up and down. The rising Sun made the movement faster. There was a pair of Red-wattled Lapwing down below feeding along with a Common Sandpiper. Occasional cry of Indian Peafowl from the distant trees made the noisy crowd gathered on the tower nervous and no animal sighting soon made them impatience. They challenged the utility of salt pits artificially made by the forest department to attract animals. I was more than happy to find Asian Fairy Bluebird, Lineated Barbet, Black-crested Bulbul, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, White-tailed Robin (male) and Black-hooded Oriole in the nearby tree which my guide couldn’t identify. On our way back we saw Sambar and Barking Deer (Indian Muntjac). At Rhino point where the baby elephant deserted by the herd have found its new home I saw Grey-backed Shrike, Juvenile Greater Spotted Eagle, Non-breeding Indian Pond Heron, Common Kingfisher, White-breasted Waterhen, Asian Openbill and Green Imperial Pigeon. I felt that guides here are only animal spotters without much knowledge on birds and the drivers are merely doing there job without much care for the tourists. The four-wheel drive vehicles are extremely old with only newly coloured, highly noisy and petrol smelling. I asked Janak to stop about 500 meters before the entry point on our way back to camp. I saw Red Junglefowl (Male), Oriental Pied Hornbill and noisy Great Myna just beside the highway only.

 

 

 

 

After Break-fast we went for Samsing a small hamlet on the hills and then to Suntalekhola where the river-side resorts are great place to stay. I saw Plumbeous Water Redstart (male), Red-throated Flycatcher (1^st winter) and numerous butterflies like Twany Rajah, Yellow Orange-tip. On our return we visited Murti, the river side village. The bypass road through the Jungles has Rhesus Monkeys whom the locals call Hazari Bandar due to their large community. Post Lunch I moved around our camp and saw Asian Pied Starling, Common Mayna, Black Drongo, Spangled Drongo, Common Hoopoe, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Rose-ringed Parakeet and Brown Shrike. To save some money I went to Chalsa forest department (which have a beautiful entrance with pink vines) for Chapramari watch tower ticket but went through the similar experience of morning which left me with Rs30 only in my wallet. Actually it would have been higher but I accepted the two 20 Bhutanese notes, Ngultrum given to me in the morning by the driver as change from the vehicle charge. We crossed the infamous railway line that’s called the Elephant Killer. Chapramari station is destroyed by Elephants but not sure how long they can survive against the continuous farm land pressure along with the uncaring system run by us. How a driver can’t slow down in a known Elephant corridor? I herd earlier that in Dhaka city in day light a speeding train have crushed through vehicles stuck in traffic and the video is very popular in MMS world. In Nepal & Assam very recently Elephants (mature & even babies) were tortured to death by stoning which earlier would have not being dared to be done to one we revered as God. The helpless animal surrounded by human animals, forest officials, police just succumbed slowly giving prospective video to photographers from news channels- no one to save. In certain parts of Bangladesh the spotted deer are chased on foot & hacked just for fun. The jungles at Garumara are guarded by Machans erected to keep the Elephants of the paddy fields. Nothing to keep the humans out of jungles. I saw Yellow-footed Green Pigeon feeding on Gayo (Nepali) tree (bridelia retusa). There were Indian Peafowl, Little Cormorant, Cattle Egret, Grey-backed Shrike, a Black Stork and Lesser Whistling-ducks in the lake. Again no sign of animal made the small crowd from Lataguri angry and they vowing not to return in this place again. I was relived so were the guides. Krishna my guide and Ashok my driver were extremely caring, concerned about my needs and they took me ahead than other groups for the tribal dance. We were gifted with glimpses of Gaur; the real ones (remember Janak?). It is called Indian Bison but actually is not related to Bison. The roads were full of birds- Oriental Pied Hornbill, Red-vented Bulbul, Indian Peafowls flew from tree to tree, Red Junglefowl flew to the tree when our vehicle neared them, a pair of Spotted Owlet fought for the best place on a branch before the hunt begin, Common Stonechat, Black Drongo, Oriental Magpie Robin, Indian Roller, Rufous Treepie, Large-billed Crow, Darter and Long-tailed Shrike along Murti river. The sudden strong smell which the guide told me to be of Elephant was thrilling but the animal remained elusive.

 

 

 

 

 

The area became orange coloured from Bougainvillea and the setting Sun. Isn’t it interesting to know that a French botanist Philibert Cammerson named this flowering plant after his captain Louis-Antoine de Bougainville who in 1768 landed in Tahiti together? The beautiful tribal dance showcasing Nepalese culture was also touching. During return they focused the spot lights towards both sides of the roads showing the jungle and enhancing the thrill of expectation. No sign of animals. Guides like Krishna are the future as they are trying hard to learn, admire and share.

 

 

 

The night was again sleepless as a drunken party of film makers from Kolkata quarreled whole night unfazed even by the objections raised by the dogs and the monkeys. I used my laptop to provide a frame to what I experienced. My tour has ended and next day morning I have to leave Gorumara Jungle Camp. A Green Moth has entered my room and reemphasized my need for a good guide book to identify butterflies & moths.

Kolkata calling. My Blackberry is full of mails that need immediate attention. This changeover is faster than the chemical reactions once I learned in college. Like the DVD (from Forest department with the Tollywood famous Mr. Sabyasachi as narrator) states that ``taking nothing only memories`` I am having such which is a lifetime one. We crossed river bridges on Neora, Sukhajhora, Kurti etc. A bus with Buddhist monks parked in the middle of road stalled the speed as they responded to nature calls on the fields around looking like maroon turtles hatching in a beach. At Siliguri I saw a few White-rumped Vultures near a new construction site as last sentry before extinction. The more adaptable Black Kite group joined the competition of chaos around. A White-throated Kingfisher followed our arrival to the airport gate.

 

Reference:

• www.kolkatabirds.com
• www.flowersofindia.net
• www.nerdybirders.com/gallery2/IndianButterflies
• http://mothphotographersgroup.msstate.edu/Plates.shtml
• Enchanting Duars- A guide book of tourism and wildlife by Apurba Ghosh
• A pocket guide to birds of Gorumara from Department of Forests, Government of West Bengal.
• A Field Guide to the Birds of India by Krys Krazmierczak & Ber van Perlo 2003 Edition.
• A Field Guide to Indian Mammals by Vivek Menon 2003 Edition.