Saturday 17 September 2016

Mountains of the Monpas: Tales from Tawang

17th November, 1962; Day III, Battle of Nuranang, Rta-dbang (རྟ་དབང་), North East Frontier Agency area 

“You will only upset the Empire and bring destruction upon this land of peace, Se.”

“Is it for me father or the Devil would have invaded our land any ways and plundered us as they always did in the past?”

“You can save the clan by accepting him.”

“So you looked after me…. loved me….. All these years, just to hand me over, as a ransom?”

“No… no my dear…. You know how much I love you.”

“And you know how much I love him.”

“We are historically more connected to them than the ones who crossed the great Siang”

“No we are not, father. Monpas are independent and free to follow their heart. That is what the nuns at Gyan-gong taught us, that was what even His Holiness told us when he stepped first in our land, isn’t it and that is what you have always asked me to believe in, father.”

“He represents a weak and immature race. He can’t stand for long. He can’t save you; neither can he save himself or dignity of his motherland. His people have all died. They now know that he is alone and just tricked them for days from the hill top. He will be overrun tonight and beheaded by the Dragon army.”

“So you told them already…. ………………Then I better rush to his side, father…. I don’t want him to be cold, thirsty, and hungry or run out of ammunition when he fights all alone for his people, for us, for our land. History should not say that Monpas can’t keep promises….. Monpas can’t love…..”

“You are fool. By the time you reach Jaswant……..”

“No……….. Nothing can keep us apart…. Not even death….. ”

“Se….. no….no…. Se…….”


1st January, 2007; Se La (Sela Pass: 4170m), Arunachal Pradesh, India

The car kept skidding on the hard snow over the high mountain pass as the driver tried his best to control, but in vain. Another few meters to go before the car will plunge deep into the darkness down below. He couldn’t see anything as the snow white surrounding blurred his vision. Only instinct told him that the end is nearing. Whenever he faced adversity in his life, he had visions of this shadow standing in distance, with one hand extended as if trying to hold him, to save him. That was not there this time. So this is the end then. He followed the driver who was trying to open the door on the other side thinking of jumping out of the vehicle. That was not easy and car was almost half submerged in the snow. And then there she appeared. He can see her and clearly for the first time. In front of the vehicle, smiling. Suddenly, an enormous Stallion truck of the Indian Army with chains across the tyres, crossed them and halted their free fall. Soon the Army Jawans were out and rescued them from their car. He felt numbness in the whole body as if it will fly away and just stared at the blank distance where she stood even a few seconds before.

They put the "road closed" sign in the middle and started working on removing the heavy snow.

Cursing him for his choice of the light vehicle to cross the formidable Se La, one of the Jawans shouted "Go back buddy.... may be Se don't want you here....ha ha ha ha....."

"What..who is Se?"

(The journey will begin once again on 5th October, 2016.........)